The reputed badness of the original anime along with the telophase stamp of approval on the manga had much to do with my decision to buy the manga, instead of looking for the anime.

I enjoy all of them--I wouldn't say I like Sanzo, exactly, he appears to have been a thorough asshole from an early age--but so far, I get the most emotional satisfaction out of Hakkai and Gojyo. Hakkai, you woobie. And volume 4 is all about Hakkai's angst.